Peg Wallace: Tiziano's Italian cuisine

Tucked on the corner of Clement Street and 19th Avenue, across from long-standing Tia Margarita, Tiziano opened roughly a year and a half ago, offering an intimate dining experience in a cozy space decorated with wine barrels and wine racks.

First impressions are very important, as are first bites. Tiziano delivers with the first bite, serving fresh bread with a bowl of olive oil filled with roasted garlic. On our first visit, we asked for several refills, and I could have made a meal out of that alone, with a glass of wine. The carpaccio came thinly sliced, topped with briny capers, thinly-sliced red onion, a drizzle of olive oil, arugula and freshly-shaved Parmigiana-Reggiano.

My husband ordered the cream of broccoli soup, a special that night, which was creamy yet not heavy.

On my second visit, I ordered the Misto Freddo, a variety of appetizers served over fresh peppery greens that were lightly dressed. The platter was a plethora of roasted and marinated vegetables, several servings of bruschetta, grilled polenta, and piles of tomato and fresh mozzarella.

Also on the appetizer menu is fried and sauteed calamari, grilled polenta topped with sauteed mushrooms, gorgonzola cheese, sage, hummus and roasted black mussels in a white wine sauce. Minestrone is also a mainstay on the menu.

Salads include arugula with shaved fennel, sliced apples and walnuts with vinaigrette, spinach with roasted beets, almonds, and shaved fennel in a balsamic vinaigrette, the classic Caesar and insalata caprese. I appreciated that the kitchen-designed specific vinaigrettes to highlight the ingredients of each salad, instead of offering patrons a choice of salad dressings. It's these details that make Tiziano stand out.

Tiziano hits a bull's eye with its fresh seafood dishes. I ordered the halibut with olives and artichoke hearts, and was presented with a tender yet substantial piece of fish with fresh sauteed carrots, zucchini and broccoli. The Veal Marsala was pounded thin and tender to the bite, rendering my knife useless. The pollo parmigiana was also a thinly-pounded breast, fried crisp and then topped with fresh marinara and oozing with mozzarella cheese. The house pastas are not to be missed, with al dente pasta and fresh ingredients, dishes such as spaghetti Bolognese, linguine with clams and risotto with shrimp and arugula deliver on the classic Italian favorites.

For dessert, the tiramisu and chocolate cake should not be missed. Also available are cheesecake and ice cream.

The wine list offers both wines by the glass, ranging from $6 to $9, and Italian and California wines by the bottle. There are plenty of affordable options, starting at $21 for a Poggio Basso Bianco. Additionally, you can also find a Ceretto Zonchera Piedmont Barolo for $85, and even a 1970 Vosne-Romanee for $475.

Of special note is the fixed price menu, available between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m. It includes minestrone or mixed green salad, an entree, and dessert, for $18.95. I have often heard parents in the neighborhood lament that there aren't enough child friendly places to get a good glass of wine and an excellent meal. I am happy to report that Tiziano fits the bill. My three year old dined with me on two of my visits, and on both occasions the wait staff could not have been more accommodating.

With its emphasis on seasonal, local ingredients, a stellar wine menu and friendly and attentive service, Tiziano's is fast becoming a neighborhood favorite.

Ristorante Tiziano
1801 Clement St. (between 19th and 20th avenues)
Phone: (415) 422-0502