Peg Wallace: Food rocks at Hard Knox

When soul food does not misrepresent itself, it is the epitome of comfort food, nourishing both body and spirit. And when the fog creeps across the avenues for our San Francisco summer, it's time to head to the Hard Knox Cafe on Clement Street for a hearty, soul-satisfying meal.

It's the second location for the Hard Knox Cafe, the first one being located on Third Street. With an eclectic interior and friendly service, it is no wonder the Hard Knox keeps a steady crowd.

Slide into your booth and warm, fragrant corn muffins are instantly placed on the table to nibble on while perusing the menu. One look at the menu and our mouths were salivating; fried chicken, smothered pork chops and barbecued ribs caught our eye, and we were not disappointed. The chicken was crispy and juicy without being greasy, the ribs meaty, and the smothered pork chops practically fell apart when the fork touched them.

Each entree comes with two sides, and it was a challenge for us to narrow down the list, but we opted for the tender braised collard greens, mashed potatoes, glazed sweet potatoes, real-deal macaroni and cheese, black-eyed peas and rice. Vegetarian meals can be crafted by choosing three sides.

Other entrees include blackened or fried catfish, chicken fried steak, fried pork chops, smothered chicken, Cajun meatloaf, turkey wings baked with onions and bell peppers and served with gravy, and braised, falling off the bone, ox tails covered in gravy. Entrees were priced very reasonable, ranging from $7 for the vegetarian plate up to $15 for the ox tails.

For light fare, sandwiches ($5.50 to $8) are abundant and piled high on soft rolls, including Louisiana hot link, catfish and shrimp po-boys, fried chicken and various standards, including burgers and cheesesteaks.

If you are yearning for something crisp and green to balance the rib-sticking fare, salads are also on the menu, with offerings such as chicken ($7.95), Cajun shrimp ($10) and a garden salad ($5.95).

Beverages include a selection of wine and beer, Thomas Kemper soda, homemade lemonade, freshly-brewed iced tea, juices and San Pellegrino water. Food can be ordered to go, and for large parties.

So, when you are in the mood for stick-to-your-ribs food, stop by the Hard Knox Cafe for a meal that won't let you down.

Hard Knox Cafe
2448 Clement St.
(415) 752-3770
Hours: Sunday - Thursday: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Friday - Saturday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.