Sandi Wernick: Restaurants

The Richmond Restaurant
I heard good things about a little (49-seat) restaurant on Balboa Street called The Richmond Restaurant and Wine Bar and was looking forward to a visit.

We squeezed in on a Saturday night when the place was hopping. John Owyang, the owner and chef who used to be television reporter, left the glamour of the small screen for the challenge of the restaurant business and opened in June 2005. He and his wife, who also works there, are celebrating their third year in business and are pleased with their progress. The staff is small and friendly; they are professionals who know what they are doing.

Owyang learned to cook on the job and for about 10 years, he took any and all kinds of kitchen jobs. When he was ready to take the next step, he did it in style working in several well-known restaurants, including the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay. Following these gigs, it took John and his wife nearly two years to find the right spot to open their restaurant. It was worth the wait because they built a very good restaurant.

Now, to dinner. Right away, we were served a sweet little puff pastry with a little camembert, brie and apple on top. The bread was fresh from La Brea Bakeries, served with three different kinds of homemade butter: salted, olive and chive/parsley.

I ordered a wonderful Balakian Farms Organic Heirloom Tomato Salad ($9.95) with a sprinkling of corn, avocado and Jerusalem artichoke salsa. The presentation was beautiful and the tomatoes were sweet, juicy and vine-fresh. Karen had the Crab Crepe ($9.95), filled with fresh blue crab salad with a hint of curry on organic greens.

My sister ordered the Hanger Steak ($19.95) with new potatoes in a goat cheese fondue on warm romaine salad. The steak was perfectly cooked and incredibly tender. The goat cheese fondue was perfection.

I ordered the Braised Chicken Leg and House Made Fettuccine ($16.50), which comes in a light cream sauce made with mushrooms and spinach. While the chicken was incredibly tender and quite tasty, I thought there was too much cream sauce. I like my dishes a little under sauced - I can always add more if I need it.

For dessert, offerings include the Chocolate Marquis ($7), a very rich chocolate custard with a caramel-filled cannoli, and the Warm Valrhona Chocolate and Peanut Butter Torte, which comes with homemade vanilla ice cream ($7).

The restaurant is undergoing some renovations. The tables are spaced far apart for privacy and they will stay that way. It's an odd shaped restaurant but it works well.

The wine room boasts more than 125 interesting varietals, including champagnes.

Owyang changes his menu six times a year, so by the time you read this, he'll probably have a new one to go with his new decor. The menu changes are subtle, updated to fit the season.

Owyang describes his restaurant as "upscale American food," but don't be scared. Although it's a white tablecloth restaurant, the atmosphere is casual, friendly and extremely professional.

Owyang cooks what he wants and takes advantage of seasonal foods. Give it a try - comfort food in the winter and lighter in the summer. You'll really enjoy it.

Richmond Restaurant and Wine Bar
615 Balboa St., at Seventh Avenue
Reservations: (415) 379-8988
Open Mon. through Sat., 5 - 10 p.m.
Credit Cards: MC/Visa/Discover