Jessica Sportsman: Rigolo Café
The Rigolo Cafe is a delightful addition to our neighborhood!
In fact, "Rigolo" means "a little funny"
in French. Now the Richmond District has a new "uptown"
Euro cafe to delight our palates. The cafe has plenty of
seating and an extensive French-European menu that has been
dutifully developed within the California Cuisine genre.
Located at Laurel Village in a space that once housed several
bakeries, Rigolo is more than just another small deli-cafe.
It is a great lunch spot. The staff is very willing to answer
questions, make changes, describe entrees and share the
story of this new addition to the Bay Bread Family. The
proprietor of Rigolo is Pascal Rigo, whose other establishments
include cafes on Polk, Pine, Cole and Fillmore streets.
Besides breakfast/brunch, lunch and dinner, they also have
catering available. You can read about the various menus
and the story behind Rigolo on the Web site listed below.
Before I went to Rigolo I was famished and hungering for
a full luncheon, as was my business partner, Lilia. I wanted
something else - something savory and different from
the usual. Rigolo has a large menu - its fare is presented
on great wallboards for delicatessen-type ordering. It is
a daunting decision as everything looks and smells wonderful.
Besides the menu that offers items like omelettes, soups
and salads, sandwiches and sides, the pastry cases are filled
with prepared treats, including desserts, breads and quick
items "to go." You can also order coffees, sodas,
beers and wine to accompany your meal.
The ordering system is somewhat cumbersome, as standing
in line to order is not always pleasant, and it was a little
crowded and noisy but the help behind the counter tried
not to rush anyone and accepted substitution suggestions
with glee. I mention this because the salad I selected was
offered with frisee, which is not my favorite.
They suggested making the salad with baby greens, instead,
and it was very flavorful. The salad I ordered was full
of baby greens, toasted walnuts, red seedless grapes, apples,
bleu cheese and dressed with a robust garlic vinaigrette.
The ratio of all ingredients was perfect and there was no
skimping on the walnuts or bleu cheese!
As an entree, I ordered one of their specialty "pizzas"
which was not like any pizza I've had. The flaky pate
brisee was similar to philo (puff pastry) but it was more
delicate, like pie crust. It was baked to light brown and
topped with caramelized onions, spicy chicken breast, prosciutto,
fontina cheese and crowned with a drizzle of truffle oil.
It was delicious! I took my small leftover portion home
for dinner.
Lilia first ordered the lasagna, but after noticing a fellow
diner's plate of garlic shrimp scampi, decided to
change her order (which the help was more than happy to
accommodate). It was a perfect balance of quickly fried
shrimp on a bed of tomatoes, bean salad and a small mound
of arugala to dress the plate. Great wedges of fresh French
baguette were served with both meals. There is no table
service but there is a handy wait station that is full of
ice-cold pitchers of lemon water, cold pats of butter, and
other accompaniments, including silverware and napkins.
It was well stocked and kept impeccably clean, which is
nice since most "help yourself" stations usually
look unkempt.
If there was one thing that definitely needs attention
it is the noise level, which was so high it was difficult
to have a conversation. But this can be easily corrected
with soft wall hangings or other decorator touches to absorb
sound.
Next time you are in the mood for a little something different
try Rigolo. I think you will enjoy this new addition to
the diverse restaurants available here in the neighborhood.
Rigolo Cafe
3465 California St., in the Laurel Village Shopping Center
(415) 876-7777
Open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner
www.rigolocafe.com
Jessica Sportsman is a neighborhood resident and the
CEO of Spec, Print Experts and publisher of "The Good
Book."
