Jessica Sportsman: Ton Kiang (Dim Sum)
Did you know that some of the best dim sum in the city
can be found right here in our neighborhood?
From the small cafes to bigger establishments, there is
a "sum of dim" (to quote an old friend) available
for all tastes and budgets. Recently, I ate at Ton Kiang,
one of the larger restaurants in the district, located at
Geary Boulevard and 22nd Avenue.
Ton Kiang is a noted as a "best of" restaurant
in a local reader's survey and if you have ever eaten the
restaurant's daily treats, you know why it is listed in
many San Francisco guides, including Zagat.
Dim sum, literally translated from Cantonese, means "dot
hearts" or "little bit of hearts." These
small plates of food are often served at regularly scheduled
business meetings as well as breakfast and midday meals
for the family.
As with any restaurant, there are those favorite dishes
that make the trip exciting. The roving carts of fresh flavors
alternate between steamed and fried and savory and sweet.
And, of course, they are served with fresh, hot tea and
an accompanying sauce for each offering.
Beware that you can get full before you know it - before
getting to savor all of your favorite treats.
The steamed shrimp dumplings with mushrooms, scallops and
spinach were delicious and light as a feather. The bite-sized
delights were served with a combination of sauces to complement
the main ingredients. Usually, each plate has two to four
"bites," depending on the size. The tender steamed
rice wrappers holding the flavorful fillings practically
melt in your mouth.
My lunch partner and I decided to go all out and order
one of everything. Thankfully, baked barbeque pork buns,
one of my favorites, were available that day. The piquant
chopped barbeque pork and onion mixture were enclosed in
a lemon-sized, sweet bun baked to perfection.
We also had a curried beef bun; a half-moon-shaped pastry
that was rich and flaky and had a filling of lightly curried
chopped beef. The pastries were so good we ordered more.
The various seafood plates were exquisitely prepared. We
had crunchy fried shrimp balls, a mixture of chopped shrimp
and herbs in wanton wrappers; the result looks like a delectable
sea creature that is a treat for the eyes as well as the
palate.
We also had the stuffed crab claws, a delicate mixture
of crab and shrimp that were deep-fried and crispy. The
explosion of fresh seafood with each bite was indescribable,
with the texture, taste and presentation combining to provide
a perfect dining experience.
Last, but not least, was the roast duck. The small plate
of duck was the ultimate decadent offering. Crunchy skin,
duck fat and tender duck meat was served in the classic
tradition, with a sweet sauce on the side. If you like duck,
please don't deny yourself the culinary treat of duck skin
and fat - the incredible taste will explode in your mouth.
We did not have any dessert because we had overestimated
our eating capabilities, but all of the homemade desserts
were tempting. Classic egg custards, powder coated sesame
puffs and many other traditional delights were on the menu.
Besides having fantastic dim sum, Ton Kiang has impeccable
service from friendly and attentive wait-staff. When we
were there, You Key took care of us. We left completely
satisfied and happy. I am sure you will be too when you
visit.
Ton Kiang
5821 Geary Blvd. (between 22nd and 23rd avenues)
Phone: (415) 387-8723
Website: www.tonkiang.net
Open every day from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Jessica Sportsman is the publisher of "The Good
Book."
