Sunset
Beacon
 
July 2005
 

Golden Gate Park shaped with McLaren at helm


Photo courtesy of SF Historical Collection,SFPL.
John McLaren was superintendent of Golden Gate Park for almost 50 years.

by Judith Kahn

When the park was first conceived, Frederick Olmstead, the designer of New York's Central Park, was consulted. He was of the opinion that parks with trees and shrubs were out of the question for San Francisco. A Santa Rosa newspaper described the proposed site for the park as a "dreary waste of shifting sand hills."

But Hall was not convinced and he successfully turned the acres of sand into a great park. In 1887, McLaren, at age 40, was appointed the fifth superintendent of the park. He served until his death.

McLaren emigrated from Scotland to California in 1870. Prior to being appointed superintendent, he had already established his credibility as a master gardener both in Scotland and California.

He studied horticulture in Edinburgh at the Royal Botanical Garden. For his training he was hired as a gardener's helper on the estates of the Earl of Windsor. In Scotland, he had planted a grass called, "sea bent" in the shifting sands, which helped hold the sand in place. In California. he planted trees at George Howard's estate and Leland Stanford's ranch.

When McLaren became superintendent, he believed he could once again plant sea bent. He also made the following demands before taking the job Ð an unlimited amount of water, $30,000 a year for grading and planting and all the dung sweeping from San Francisco streets to fertilize ground. Above all, he insisted that there never be a sign in the park that read, "Keep off the grass."

When he first saw the California redwoods, he remembered his father's admonition: "Me boy, if ye have nothing to do, go plant a tree and it will grow while ye sleep."

And plant he did.

In his youth, McLaren said, "I hope to plant a million trees before I die." He planted more then two million.

He was chosen to be the architect for the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition. He grew trees before the exposition and stored them in the Presidio until needed. He planted a variety of bulbs at varying depths in the ground, to control the growth and color of the flowers. His favorite flower was the rhododendron and his favorite tree was the "evergreen redwood."

Having tied down the sand dunes, he still had to figure out how to control the ocean waves that swept new sand into the man-made garden. Along the beach, he put thousand of bundles of laths in a row. In front of them, he dumped twigs and branches that had been pruned from the park trees. The ocean piled sand onto the simple barricade and formed a ridge that ran the length of the beach. Today, it is known as the Great Highway.

McLaren's battle with bureaucracy was legendary. He fought the San Francisco Railway when it planned a streetcar line through the park and he fought the chief of police when he sought to remove an oak tree that was too close to a building. McLaren told him, "I'm a reasonable man. Let's compromise. You remove the station."

When a reporter asked him about what was said, he replied, "It was just a wee misunderstanding."

The city's leader's insisted that the park have statues of every great man they could think of. McLaren hated statues and called them "stookies." Every time they erected a stookie, he would plant trees to hide it. Some of the most beautiful groves he planted were created to hide a famous man's likeness.

McLaren was considered a benevolent dictator. Most workers admired him; some worshiped him and called him "Uncle John." His assistant said that he always swore at his men and they'd swear right back Ð this was the best way to keep their jobs.

In 1883, the board of supervisors approved for the Mid-Winter Fair to be held at the east end of Golden Gate Park. It enraged McLaren to watch trees and shrubs ripped from the ground and his opposition to the fair never ceased. At its closing, it is said that he derived joy from ordering the sticks of dynamite for the destruction of the 272-foot-tall Bonet Electric Tower.

When McLaren was 70 years old, he had reached the mandatory retirement age. The board of supervisors wrote legislation that permitted him to remain superintendent for life. Since he would loose his pension, the board also doubled his salary. McLaren envisioned a park with open space within walking distance of every resident of the city. He was insistent that facilities would be provided for baseball, tennis, lawn bowling and fly casting.

McLaren passed away in his beloved park on Jan. 12, 1943, at the age of 96. His body lay in the rotunda of City Hall for two days. When the funeral procession passed through the park on its way to the cemetery, many of his employees stood at attention with their hats off.