Jessica Sportsman: Gaspares Italian Restaurant

Since moving into the Richmond District in the early '90s, I must have walked by Gaspares on Geary Boulevard a thousand times, wondering what the food would be like inside the restaurant's unassuming exterior.

Late one cold and rainy evening, I was walking by Gaspares with a friend when a huge waft of garlic hit me. I decided then and there to check out this old-time Italian restaurant.

The newspaper article taped inside the window touting "old fashioned pizza house" and its accolades beaconed us inside. I was immediately warmed and comforted with the atmosphere of drawn heavy velvet drapes at the door. Imitation grape leaves and vines twined the ceiling and old straw covered Chianti bottles, hung by the  dozen, adding to a days-gone-bye pasta house feeling.

The menu listed all those favorite Italian dishes we have all come to know and love. Pizza, spaghetti, baked lasagna, ravioli, chicken cacciatore and Italian sausages are only a few of the items listed on the extensive menu.

First, we ordered the large Antipasto Misto Plate, which was huge. The platter was filled with ham, salami, cheese, olives, tiny-spiced peppers and tartly-dressed salad greens. There certainly was enough fare to feed four people as an appetizer.

My guest, Lilia, and I also ordered a small salad for two (unaware of the sheer volume of food offered on the Antipasto Plate) and I ended up taking it home for lunch the next day. The dressing on the salad was a biting, vinegary, garlic emulsion that was a perfect compliment to the rich meat and cheeses and a perfect palate teaser for the pasta dishes to come.

My spaghetti with meat sauce entree was freshly homemade, delicious and twice as much food as I expected. It was thick and spicy without being overwhelming and was accompanied by a basket of fresh sweet white bread and butter; a great change from the usual sourdough.

Lilia had the better of the two dishes, the house special - baked lasagna. The lasagna was rich and tender, with sausage, melted cheese, a wonderful tomato sauce and perfectly done pasta. We each had a nice glass of inexpensive Rose wine to accompany the meal and had absolutely no room for dessert or coffee.

The service was old-school - timely and efficient. Gaspares believes you know what you want to order without too much prompting or interruption.

I can't wait to go back and order pizza (including thin crust) and some of the other "standards." Even with the large amount of leftovers, the food was very fairly priced. It is obviously a beloved place with regulars as it was packed from the time we walked in (at 5:30 p.m.) until we left two hours later. Gaspares has been in business since the early '80s and is open six days a week.

Gaspares is not fancy, but warm and welcoming with what counts - tasty food.

Gaspares
5546 Geary Blvd.
(415) 387-5025
www.gasparespizza.com (A menu and other services are available at the website.)