Ginny Kolmar: Best Bites - Eliza's

Open for around two years, Eliza's is a special restaurant, perfect for bringing out-of-towners, guests and anyone who loves excellent Chinese food that is beautifully presented and served in breathtaking surroundings.

Eliza's other restaurant (on Potrero Hill) has achieved a measure of fame, bringing in gourmets from all over the Bay Area, as does their other (original) location on Oak Street.

A guest and I dined very early at the Eliza's located on California Street after an afternoon movie screening, and we were overjoyed at just about everything. The decor mixes the height of modern with Art Deco and everywhere one looks the eye is pleased. Tables are glass topped with pedestal bases made of fanciful sculptured brushed aluminum. Lights shine on various pastel shades in the ceiling and a bar area features a lovely Tang horse (after all, it is the year of the horse).

Lovely jasmine tea was served immediately, and we started with an appetizer of Pot Stickers, $4.25. The guest ordered a cup of Hot and Sour Soup, $2.50, which turned out to be very spicy and hot, too much so for me, although he liked and finished it. Vegetarian Mu-Shu, $6.50, with its homemade pancakes, was fabulous, as was our entree of Mongolian Lamb, listed on the "specials" menu ($7.75). A modest portion, delivered on a gorgeous platter with tasty rice, it was superb and we would order it again.

Our bill came to a total of $28.50, including tax and a generous tip. I can't wait to go back and try some other specials, including Lobster and Mushrooms with Prawns, $9.95; Baby Bok Choy w/Spicy Garlic Sauce, $7; or perhaps Lobster and Mushrooms with Prawns (including snap peas and red peppers), $9.95. Mango Beef, $7.50, or Portabello Mushroom with Shrimp, $8.95, both sound like winners as well.

The dinner menu is quite large, with nine appetizers, six soups and two salads (a friend swears their Chicken Salad is the best). Entrees include six seafood dishes, three beef, 10 chicken, four pork, nine vegetable or vegetarian plates and four rice and noodles dishes. The menu states: "We use no M.S.G.; $4.50 /person minimum." Also, if you have six or more in your party, an 18 percent gratuity will be added to your check.

Lunch offers 31 yummy-sounding choices, from House Special Prawns, $5.15, and Vegetarian Delight, $4.50, to Kung Pao or Garlic Chicken or Mango Beef, also $4.50. Many dishes are spicy, but I feel sure they would cook up a batch of Special Chow Mien, or even some Mu-Shu from the dinner menu, should you wish something more bland but delicious.

There is always a "specials" card, but the dishes change periodically, so if a special sounds interesting, it is best to order it while you are there. Do remember that at lunch or dinner there is a $10 minimum to use a credit card, but cash is gratefully accepted.

There are seven kinds of beer, hot and cold sake, non-alcoholic wine and beer, waters of various kinds and soft drinks, as well as the lovely jasmine tea.

Even though I am still using a walker, we could have gotten a wheelchair through the door and at a table, albeit with difficulty, if we needed to. Oh, did I forget to mention that I shattered my ankle in a terrible accident at the end of July? I've been on the inactive list from that time until now, but I am happy to be back writing the restaurant column for the Richmond Review again. Thanks to all of you who e-mailed, phoned or wrote to ask where I was, as well as Eliza's waiters and manager, Jennifer, for their help.

ELIZA'S
2877 California St. (between Divisadero and Broderick streets)
Phone: (415) 621-4819 (take-out available)
Beer and wine available
Hours: Open seven days a week: Monday - Friday, 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.; Sunday, noon - 10 p.m.
Wheelchairs OK
Credit cards OK
Atmosphere: ***
Service: ***
Food: *** 1/2
Price: **
Overall: ***