Ginny Kolmar: Clementine

Opened three-and-a-half years ago by Laurent Legendre and Didier Labbe, Clementine is a wonderful little French restaurant in the Inner Richmond District - a pleasant surprise.

Legendre is the host and manager, while Labbe toils away in the tiny kitchen.

Because the noise levels get pretty high after 7:30 p.m., we (me and my two guests) did most of our talking from our 6 p.m. reservation until then.

Do not shy away from Clementine; no matter how little one knows about French cooking or avoids it, thinking of high prices, Clementine is the exception. Prices are so moderate because both men understand that they must attract their neighbors to stay in business.

To do so, a "Richmond Neighbors' Special" is always on the menu, a fixed-price dinner. For $20, one gets a fine three-course meal consisting of either soup or salad, choice of entrée (always a choice of fish or meat) and any dessert from the a la carte menu.

For a French restaurant this is quite a remarkable price, especially when the food is so delectable.

I wrote down what we all ordered, but be advised that the menu changes every week.

One of us decided upon the Neighborhood Special, with a delicious salad (we all mopped up the light, olive oil and herb dressing with tiny bits of French bread.

The second guest reported her salad of artichoke hearts and green beans (the French, tiny, thin kind) with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar was perfect ($7.75). I tasted it and agree wholeheartedly.

I couldn't resist and ordered Escargots de Bourgogne au beurre d'ail et persil. The snails from Burgundy in a garlic parsley butter ($6.75) was so delicious!

We chatted while waiting for our entrees. They were worth the wait. A beautifully-prepared skate on the Richmond Neighbors' Meal was seared on the top, broiled just right, so it was tender, moist and covered with just a whisper of sauce.

M. Labbe cooks with a much lighter hand in the butter and salt department than do most French chefs. Being more than 40 years of age, I must watch such mundane things as cholesterol and blood pressure and truly appreciate eating fine food without gaining pounds!

To continue, our second guest settled on roasted breast and braised leg of duck with shallot potato puree, red wine and foie gras sauce ($16.50).

I couldn't resist a roasted pork tenderloin over French navy beans and caramelized kumquat halves with caper raisin sauce ($15.50). Oh, my, dear readers, what bliss! Every bite was ambrosia-like, so subtle the flavors, especially the slight hint of citrus.

Normally, none of us would have ordered desserts, but of course how could we leave a fine French restaurant without trying some? It was all on the order of duty to our loyal readers, of course.

We all sampled the Crème Brulee, made with vanilla, caramelized French toast with a dab of hazelnut ice cream on top and the classic fresh apple tart, served with caramel ice cream.

Our efficient waitress served the desserts on three dinner plates with a large serving spoon and fork on each one so we could all share the wonderful selections. It was a perfect solution for three diners who wanted to savor every taste.

My personal favorite was the Crème Brulee, but the French toast and apple tart got rave reviews. Actually, one can't go wrong with anything on the dessert menu ($6 each) or, if one prefers, an assortment of cheeses, selected daily ($9).

The wine list is extensive and marvelous, showing both California and French wines, aperitifs and after-dinner choices of brandy or port. A full bar is available for all you Vitamin V types!

With one order of coffee, our bill came to $87, plus tax and tip, definitely a lower price than the restaurants downtown - especially for such wonderful food.

The tables are close together at Clementine and the restaurant is dimly lit. Despite the waiters and Legendre rushing around to accommodate all the eager eaters, plus the noise later in the evening, all these distractions didn't add up to a negative, especially when matched up against a great eating experience.

Clementine

126 Clement St. (between Second and Third avenues)

Phone: 387-0408

Fax: 387-0782

Website: www.clementinerestaurant.net

Visa/M/C (no A/E); reservations a "must;" call for wheelchair accessibility

Hours: Dinner; Tuesday - Sunday, 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m.

Atmosphere: **1/2 (noisy)

Service: **** (excellent)

Food: **** (the best)

Price: ** 1/2

Overall: *** 1/2 (almost perfect)