Ginny Kolmarhat: Sakana Bune

There seems to always be families, small or large depending on the day of the week and time of day, waiting to get in to one of three restaurants near Geary Boulevard and 21st Avenue. One of them, Sakana Bune, is a terrific place to take kids for lunch or dinner. They love to sit at the counter, just as adults do, watching little wooden boats float by carrying small dishes of sushi, those wonderful little pillows of sweet rice and various kind of fish, vegetables and seafood, each wrapped in seaweed.

If you have never tried sushi, why not start with cooked, shrimp, eel or vegetarian sushi.

The blue and white décor and the sparkling cleanliness of the restaurant are enticing. Open a little more than a year, there is seating for 30 at the sushi counter and 28 at tables for 2 to 4 or more. Three sushi chefs work at breakneck speed at the dinner hours. Although busy, they are happy to answer questions or take requests for special sushi not seen on the huge menu, or on the boats, so go ahead and ask.

Because it was Father's Day when I went to Sakana Bune, I couldn't find anyone with whom to share, so I went alone. Naturally I couldn't check out the dinner menu as well as the sushi. Yes, there is a fine dinner menu, 13 items, ranging from $6.95 for Chicken Teriyaki to a high of $12.50 for Unagi (eel) Kabayaki. All dinner entrees include soup, salad and rice.

A sign in the window offers a Special Lunch: Chicken Teriyaki, including soup, salad and rice for $3.95. Special egg rolls are included: Rice Bowls (10 of them) are $3.95 and $4.95 ($1 more at dinner). Udon (Japanese wheat noodles and broth) has five variations from $3.95 to $6.95 at lunch, a dollar or so more at dinner. Appetizers include Edamame (boiled soy beans, lightly salted, $1.70), House Egg Roll (five pieces, $2.50) or Oshitashi (steamed spinach with special sauce, $3).

Eleven types of Sashimi (five pieces of raw fish) are listed, from $5.50 for Saba (mackerel) to $7.95 for Sake (smoked salmon). I also saw five kinds of seasonal Sashimi on the menu, all at $9.95, including abalone, sea urchin, long-neck clams, fatty tuna and tuna belly.

Side orders of Miso Soup or Green Salad, $1 each, are a bargain, while 2 pieces of Mochi Ice Cream (green tea, mango and red bean, $2,50) or Green Tea Ice Cream, $1.50 are palate clearers, as is the Tsukemono (Japanese pickles, $3).

There are six Sashimi Combinations that cost $3.95 ­ $6.95 at lunch and $6.95 ­ $7.95 at dinner. Sashimi combinations range from $16.95 for 12 pieces of various fish to $49.95 for 40 pieces (a big party!). Twelve Sushi Combinations include everything from California and tuna rolls to Unagi and Ebi (shrimp) and Masago (smelt roe) and Hamachi (yellowtail). Prices on these combos start at $15.95 (24 pieces) and run to $45.95 (54 pieces).

I sat at the sushi counter and enjoyed my two pieces each of Ebi (cooked shrimp), Hamachi Maguro and Unagi. I also like their four pieces of real crab in the California Roll (only $2.65 for 4 pieces!). I couldn't resist my last splurge on the menu - three pieces of a side roll of what seemed to be crab salad, sweet rice and avocado, with Unagi on the top with a mystery sauce. It was delicious and colorful.

My bill for all this plus Miso Soup ($1) was $16.65 plus tax and tip. I ate far too much, but for you, dear reader, I must sacrifice!

I fully intend going back to Sakana Bune with friends to try some of the Special Rolls, especially the Rainbow Roll (eight pieces, $5.95 crabmeat, avocado, tuna, salmon and tai top). I also might like a Godzilla (eight pieces, chopped yellow tail deep fried tempura-style w/spicy sauce, $6.95) and the Bune Roll sounds yummy, too (eight pieces Hamachi, eel, scallion top and avocado, $7.95).

I get hungry just thinking about all these delightful sounding combos.

SAKANA BUNE JAPANESE

RESTAURANT

5701 Geary Blvd. (corner 21st Avenue)

(415) 387-8561

Visa and Mastercard; beer and wine; wheelchairs O.K.

Hours: Mon.-Thurs. lunch: 11:30 a.m. ­ 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: 5:30 a.m. ­ 10:30 p.m.; Friday lunch: 11:30 a.m. ­ 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: 5:30 a.m. ­ 11:30 p.m.; Saturday 11:30 a.m. ­ 11:30 p.m.; Sunday 11:30 a.m. ­ 11:30 p.m.

Atmosphere: HH 1/2

Service: H 1/2

Food: HHH

Price: H

Overall: HHH