Ginny Kolmar: Miz Brown's

I have been going to Miz Brown's, a classic American coffee shop in Laurel Village, since moving to the City in 1961.

Main shareholder Collen Meharry and her co-owner sister, Marlee Meharry Simms, are nieces of Robert Overin, who originally opened the restaurant in 1953, and daughters of well-known Harry Meharry, who ran the restaurant for many years and still comes around during the holidays to greet his old customers.

Oldtimers may remember at one time when there were nine Miz Brown's restaurants and three bars located all over the greater Bay Area. Now only the California Street location remains - next year it will celebrate 50 years in business at the same location.

No-nonsense coffee shops are in short supply in the City. Miz Brown's serves well-prepared food, always made fresh to order, with beverages and desserts in ample portions for a good price. From breakfast through dinner plus snacks, find it all right here - whether high-caloried or not.

The best deal at the restaurant is the Early Bird Dinner for $9.95, which includes soup, salad, entree, vegetable, dinner roll, dessert and coffee or tea.

Breakfast served at any hour includes egg and omelet dishes from $4.95 for two eggs to $10.95 for a Harris Ranch eight-ounce steak and eggs. All fried egg dishes are made cholesterol-free and served with hash browns and a choice of toast. For an additional 50 cents, egg white substitutes are available.

I can attest to terrific buttermilk hotcakes ($4.25) served with melted butter and maple syrup. The waffles are equally light and wonderful.

Lunchtime usually finds me with a cup or bowl of soup - it changes daily, but a fabulous Matzo Ball Soup is offered seven days a week ($3.25 - $4.35). Connoisseurs have trouble deciding each Friday whether to have that or a heavenly clam chowder in a French Bread Bowl ($6.25). I always take the bowl home to enjoy later.

Those in the know show up for an early lunch on Fridays since the soup tends to run out by 1:30 p.m. If you're really hungry, hamburgers are as famous as the soups.

Years ago, the late Bing Crosby used to drop in for a burger and a milkshake, as did the late Herb Caen on occasion, and patrons have been known to see Sen. Dianne Feinstein chowing down on a cheeseburger ($6.95).

All burger meats at Miz Brown's are ground fresh daily and most are served with a choice of tons of crispy French fries, homemade potato salad or coleslaw. Prices range from $5.45 for a plain hamburger to a high of $8.30 for the Mild Green Chili and Monterey Jack Cheese burger. A veggie gardenburger on a toasted bun with tomato, onion, pickle and lettuce ($6.70) is also available.

There are 17 different kinds of sandwiches on the large menu, from $4.95 for a grilled cheese to $8.95 for Harry's Favorite Chicken Sandwich, made with a boneless chicken breast smothered in jack cheese and sauteed mushrooms and served on grilled sourdough bread.

My favorite is the tuna melt, called the Grilled Tuna and Cheese ($6.95). All sandwiches are served with a choice of fries, potato salad or cole slaw.

Also popular for lunch, especially on cold days, is the Chicken in a Basket, which has four pieces of fried chicken served with french fries and biscuits with honey ($8.30). I have also spotted many diners eating a side order of Miz Brown's famous chili ($3.75).

The salads are crisp and delish, from a dinner salad ($3.15) to a choice of Chef's Caesar, tuna or fruit and cottage cheese ($7.15 each).

There are 10 dinner entrees, including macaroni and cheese ($7.10). Most of the entrees cost $9.45 but the real deals are found in the daily specials.

On Monday the special is liver and onions; Tuesday features sirloin tips with noodles; Wednesday, spaghetti with meat sauce; Thursday, corned beef and cabbage; Friday, meatloaf; Saturday, fried chicken; Sunday, Chicken Italiano is highlighted. Prices for the specials range from $6.95 to $8.25 and include potato or spaghetti, vegetable and dinner roll.

Did I mention that some of the best milkshakes in town are available for $3.25? They also make a mean root beer float ($2.65) at Miz Brown's and a great Orange Freeze, made with real orange juice and orange sherbet. Both are just as I remember from my childhood. Dreyers is the ice cream of choice. Desserts include a great apple pie, as well as other pies and cakes ($2.95) and several kinds of ice cream ($1.50).

Seniors and children are always welcome and young ones are given a special placemat to color to keep them occupied until their meal arrives.

The decor at Miz Brown's is typical coffee shop, with formica counter tops and orange padding on the restaurant's booths. But don't go for the decor, Miz Brown's is one of the best coffee shops in the City.

Miz Brown's Restaurant

3401 California St. (at Laurel Street in the Laurel Village shopping center)

Phone: 752-2039

Fax: 752-2022

Food to go available

No beer/wine; no credit cards

Hours: Monday - Friday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday - Sunday, 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Atmosphere: ** 1/2

Food: ***

Service: ***

Price: ** 1/2

Overall: ***