Ginny Kolmar: Presidio Cafe

On a beautiful summer day, we entered a grand building, erected two-and-a-half years ago, that houses the restaurant for the Presidio Golf Course.

With its high wood-beamed ceiling and walls of dark wood paneling, it is indeed a grand spot in which to have lunch. A stone fireplace graces one end of the rectangular room - unlit on this warm day, but nice to have after a morning of hiking around the park or playing 18 holes of golf. The other end has a beautiful wood bar, nicely set off by large flagstones at the back of the bar, to match the fireplace. Another wall, opposite the kitchen, has wonderful leaded, floor to ceiling windows, overlooking the golf course. When you make a reservation, ask for a window table - it's worth it!

Young Executive Chef Geoffrey Alter previously cooked at two top-flight S.F. restaurants, and from the buzz at neighboring tables, everyone is happy with his efforts here. With a specials menu each week and a new set menu each month, Alter firmly takes advantage of the Bay Area and northern California's fresh-grown fruits and vegetables. Our waitress, Mariana, as well as all the other wait staff, was perfectly attentive.

Two of us agreed to have our main meal this noonday, so we started by sharing a large portion of very rich and wonderful French Onion Soup, $6.95. Rather than the usual bouillon or consomme stock, Geoff uses veal stock and a mix of sweet and regular small onions, boiling the stock down until a rich soup is achieved. That, plus the large herb crouton and gratineed Gruyere cheese completes this treat.

My guest ordered Mussels Bruscetta served in a white wine sauce with shallots, parsley, extra-virgin olive oil, with grilled sourdough bread, $9.95. We both pronounced it heavenly, extremely garlicky with those shallots and enough bread to dunk in the sauce along with just barely cooked mussels - worth twice the price!

My Presidio Cobb Salad ($9.95), with the usual turkey, ham and Swiss cheese, plus bacon, Blue cheese, croutons, olives, tomatoes and butter lettuce, had a potent creamy (garlic) buttermilk dressing. It not only was delicious, I could only eat half and took the remainder home for dinner that evening. The entire meal, with a bottomless coffee cup and iced tea, cost $32.94.

Other specials were the Farmer's Market Corn Chowder, $6.50; Squid with Cherry Tomatoes, Parsley, Olive Oil, Garlic and Grilled Bread, $7.95 and Pan-roasted Salmon with Oven Roasted Ratatouille and Basil Sauce, $10.95.

On the regular July lunch menu, besides our soup, we could have ordered Deep Fried Rock Shrimp, $8.95, or Chicken Tenders, $7.95, as starters. Salads included the Maryland Crab Cake Salad (with shaved fennel, mixed greens, parsley leaves and red pepper Aoli, $12.95; Mixed Green Salad, $6.95; Caesar Salad, $8.95 (with chicken, $10.95); Spinach Couscous and Corn, $9.95 or Grilled Tuna Salad, $12.95.

Entrees for July included everything from a burger to a chicken parmesan or Officer's Club sandwich (and from the ones we saw, huge!).A Reuben sandwich or the great mussels cost $9.95 while Penne Bolognese, Grilled Flank Steak Sandwich or Corn and Gruyere Bread Pudding cost $10.95 each.

I can't wait to round up some more friends and go back to this fabulous restaurant, either for lunch or the famous weekend brunch.

PRESIDIO CAFE

Located at the Presidio just inside the Arguello Gate;

Phone: (415) 561-4600 (Reservations suggested); credit cards, beer and wine and wheelchairs OK

Hours: Monday - Friday, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. (from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. there is a "Par 3" shortened menu); Saturday brunch, 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. - 3 p.m. (live jazz every other Sunday - call first to confirm which one.)