Ginny Kolmar: Punahele Island Grill
Open three years, Myles Ibarra's restaurant and Marguerite's bar will have you thinking you're somewhere in Honolulu or upcountry Maui without those high Hawaii prices.
Seating around 95 happy Polynesians and haoles (Caucasians and others not from the islands), cotton fabric imitating tapa cloth lines all the walls, with ivy hanging down from planters at the top. Tables covered with paper placemats and chairs can be configured to seat large or small parties. (There was a large group celebrating the birthday of a lovely 16-year old young woman on the Friday we decided to have dinner.)
Because it was the Easter weekend and with tax time approaching, we were told by Janie, our wonderful waitress, that it was more quiet than usual. If that was quiet, we'd just as soon not be around when the restaurant is full, since the noise level was 'way too high for older diners, but the kids we saw (young through teens) seemed to love it.
Fridays and Saturdays feature live Hawaiian music. There is a very reasonable $2 cover charge for the entertainment. On the first and third Fridays of each month, Berkeleyites Patrick Landeza and Kit Madrid play. Patrick sings and plays slack guitar. The young musician, whose parents are from the Islands, composed most of the songs we heard. Other than the sound system being turned too high, the music is very nice and adds to the ambiance. But even in Hawaii, except in bars, music is normally played with soft amplification, at least in the restaurants we tended to love.
The bar features two rooms, one with a pool table. It's a warm and comfortable spot with tables and chairs as well as a long bar with stools.
Dinner is served after 4 p.m. daily, with a wide variety of 17 entrees. After much thought, one of us ordered one 'Elua Lu'au Plate: Kalua Pork (smoke-flavored, baked at least 12 hours), served with Lomilomi (chopped salmon, tomatoes, onions), Macaroni Salad, Poi and two huge scoops of perfect steamed rice, $10.95. The other order was for Teriyaki Beef (or it could have been chicken or pork), served with that same rice, Macaroni Salad and Kim Chee, $8.95. Certainly the prices cannot be any lower! The most expensive entrée on the menu is Laulau (Pork and Butterfish) wrapped in Taro leaves and steamed, Lomilomi, macaroni salad, Poi and steamed rice, for $12.95. For those more inclined to Mainland choices, try Malihini Charcoal Grilled Top Sirloin, served with cooked vegetables and the aforementioned rice, $9.25.
One may also have Malia's Garden Plate: Vegetarian Laulau (Taro leaves wrapped around yams, carrots, mushrooms and onions, lightly spiced then steamed), served with teriyaki grilled eggplant and rice, $10.95.
Tutu's Beef Stew, $7.75; Kimo's Chicken Katsu Plate (chicken filets, lightly spiced and breaded with Panko, then deep-fried), $8.95 or Kaka'ako Chili Plate (Lunch wagon style Chili con Carne, spicy but not too hot, served over rice with macaroni salad), $7.50, are among other offerings.
"Swing-shift breakfasts" are served all day. Seven dishes ranging from $4.95 for the Shorebreak Omelet (3 eggs any style, served with Portuguese sausage and rice) to $7.50 for 3 eggs any style, with Portuguese sausage, Kalua Pork, steamed rice and macaroni salad. Some of the dishes add brown gravy to the eggs.
Burgers and sandwiches are also on the menu, all served with you guessed right macaroni salad. Most are $4.50 (BBQ Teri Burgers or Chicken or Teri Beef Sandwiches), with regular hamburgers or cheeseburgers at $3.95 and $4.25. Side orders range from Boiled Peanuts, $2 and Poke-Ahi with onions at market price to Potstickers or Jalapeno Poppers, $4.50 each. Onion Rings, $3.75, Fries, $3.25 and Mozzarella Cheese Sticks, $3.95 seem to be very popular. But if you're pining away for Potstickers, $4.50, or Span Musubi, $1.85, here they are!
Desserts include pies by the slice for $2.50 for Haupia (coconut), Guava or Lilikoi (passion fruit), or the same variety in a slice of cake, $3.50. Haupia Pudding Squares are $2 and Ice Cream or Sherbet are $1.85.
Beverages include sodas and Kona Blend coffee or hot tea. Featured are Hawaiian Sun Juices (in the can), Tropical Iced Tea and Lilikoi.
Children will love this restaurant and the teenagers in the family won't put up any fuss about eating with parents or adult friends. It's a happy place, just as funky restaurants are in the Hawaiian Islands.
PUNAHELE ISLAND GRILL & 32ND AVENUE BAR & GRILL
2650 Judah St. (at 32nd Avenue)
Phone: 759-8276
Full Bar; limited
Wheelchairs OK
Visa/MC/Cash
Hours: Sunday Thursday, 11 a.m. 9 p.m.; Friday, Saturday, 11 a.m. 11 p.m.
ADVISORY:
Atmosphere: HHH
Service: HH
Food: HH
Price: H
Overall: HH