Ginny Kolmar: Kirin Restaurant

Ironically, after discovering one of the best gourmet Chinese restaurants in the City (Mayflower, April issue), here's another great one just a scant block away in the Outer Richmond!

The Happy Immortal Restaurant in the district closed last year, but half of its original partnership, Yun Man Wong opened Kirin last August with his son, Henry. It has been packed for lunch and dinner ever since.

Mr. Wong senior is in the kitchen creating the most wonderful dishes, while Henry sits at the entrance greeting everyone as they enter and taking their payment when they leave.

Henry is a most gracious host. He tells me that the name Kirin is named for a Chinese and Korean restaurant that was located in San Francisco more than 20 years ago, and has nothing to do with the Japanese beer.

With an aquarium of fresh fish and seafood in the back of the restaurant plus seasonal specials, which I highly recommend, there are always new items on the menu. The carpet contrasts nicely with burgundy tablecloths and white napkins in the small 99-seat establishment. Most of the tables seat six to eight, but there are several for parties of two to four diners. Large paintings of koi (carp) and flowers cover the walls. The staff is unfailingly polite, even on weekends when they get rushed off their feet.

Three of us shared just one order of Hot and Sour Soup, $4.95. It was a bit too hotly spiced for Peggy and me, but Howie pronounced it delicious. Most of it went home with him. We all agreed that the appealing appetizers were just a bit too expensive for a casual dinner: Minced Chicken with Lettuce Cups at $13 for small or $23 for large or, the best, Minced Squab with Lettuce Cup for $26 was beyond our budget for the evening!

An order of Mushu Chicken, $6.95 as an appetizer, was as good as any Mushu I've eaten since the late, lamented Lung Fung closed down. Perhaps there weren't as many minced water chestnuts as some eateries use, but it was tasty nevertheless. Even the pancakes tasted homemade and they were perfectly round and thin.

When asked if water chestnuts could be added to Prawns with Snow Peas, $8.50, they were, and the dish was simply fabulous; big, juicy prawns, tossed to just the right velvety texture with crunchy snow peas and those sliced water chestnuts made for a perfect entrée.

But the absolute favorite of the evening was on a separate menu titled "Today's Specials."

We debated over three mango dishes but finally settled on Mango with Chicken, $6.95. I was the only one who wondered what mango slices would taste like with either shredded steak cubes, $8.50 or with prawns and scallops, $9.95. The combination was indescribably delicious. We were ecstatic about this dish and want to go back to have it again before mangos become scarce.

The latter dish was on a special, small menu with 10 items listed, including the mango items. Others that might appeal are Moqua with Dried Scallop Sauce, $6.95; Steamed Filet of Steelhead with Egg, $13; or an Oyster Omelet, $7.95.

Let it be noted that the portions of everything we ordered were so large, we took almost half of everything home with us.

The very next day I had a hankering for my ancient favorite, Tomato Beef Chow Mein to take home with me so I went back to Kirin. It's not on the menu, but they made it for me. Henry called the popular item "Chinese spaghetti."

I paid cash and the receipt has mysteriously disappeared, but I believe it was about $5.95, give or take a dollar, plus tax. It was a perfect Chow Mein, one of the best I've ever had.

There are many Chefs' Special Dishes, 54 to be exact. Many feature fish and seafood, frogs, conch, chicken, beef, squid, bean cake, pork and more. Peruse a banquet menu, six different meals from $148 to $368. Some of these must be ordered in advance. My only quibble is that it doesn't state how many each menu item feeds, but one can always phone and ask for advice.

For example, the meal at $148 features the following dinner: Jellyfish with Pork Cold Plate; Scallop & Octopus with Mixed Vegetables; Dried Scallop with Yellow Chives Soup; Golden Crispy Chicken; Steak Cubes with Tender Greens; Lobster with Ginger and Scallions; Roast Squab; Steamed Whole Fish and dessert or fresh fruits.

Try Kirin Restaurant for the very best Chinese food, whether by yourself or with a group. It's a great pleasure to eat truly gourmet food without breaking the budget.

Kirin Restaurant

6135 Geary Blvd. (between 25th and 26th avenues)

Phone: (415) 752-2268

Beer/wine; wheelchairs, with difficulty; Visa/MC/AE/Discover

Hours: Tues-Sun 11:30 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.; closed Mondays

ADVISORY:

Atmosphere ****

Service ***

Food ****

Price **

Overall ****