Ginny Kolmar: Giorgio's Pizzeria

It seems as though this restaurant has been here forever, but in truth it only opened in 1972.

There are 21 tables, seating about 40 hungry Italian food lovers, featuring classic red and white checkered cloths. The latticework on the ceiling of the large room holds up artificial leaves and grapes, giving a faint impression that we are eating in an Italian arbor.

If we have a heat wave this month like we did in July, we may all end up spending the day at Ocean Beach, or down the peninsula or at a beach in Marin County. If that's the case, or if you've taken the kids out for back-to-school clothes shopping, Giorgio's is the perfect place to refresh. Everyone will be short tempered, tired and very hungry. This is the solution. The restaurant makes no demands on how its patrons dress or even act. Get a table in the back by the loud jukebox playing great music and the kids will want to dance (several did the night we went). They'll be out of the way and won't bother other tables of hungry people.

Prices are low, so you won't break the bank at this casual eatery.

Appetizers are terrific, with large portions. A huge dinner salad is enough for an entrée if you have a small appetite, or two can share it before ordering a pizza or pasta. At $3.95, it includes lettuce, tomato wedges, salami, olives, a couple of hot peppers and more, plus Giorgio's homemade Italian salad dressing. Delicious!

Strictly for the sake of reporting to you, our faithful readers, we also sampled an order of Garlic Bread. It was well buttered with lots of garlic bits and cheese sprinkles, then toasted to bring out that garlicky flavor. Other appetizers include small or large Antipasto, $6.50 and $9.50; small or large Vegetarian Salad, $6 or $9; Anchovies and Olives or Salami and Cheese, $7.50 each, or Pizza Bread, $2.25.

Entrees include Cannelloni, $9.25; Baked Lasagna or Rigatoni, $9.25; Eggplant Parmigiana (served with salad or pasta), $11. Other pastas include all the usual forms of spaghetti, $7.50 with meat or non-meat tomato sauces, to $9 up for spaghetti or ravioli with meatballs or Italian sausage. I ordered my usual, a classic "half and half" (half spaghetti, half ravioli) with the manager/waiter Victor Contini's favorite meat sauce, $7.50. All pizzas and calzones come in three versions: small (11"), medium (13"), large (15") and extra large (17").

My two guests ordered a small Vegetarian Special Pizza, $10.60, which was almost enough for three people! It contained large amounts of mozzarella, mushrooms, bell peppers, onions and olives and was purely delicious. Next time I intend to enjoy Giorgio's Special, $10.60 for an 11" pie, consisting of mozzarella, mushrooms, salami, sausage and pepperoni.

The four versions of a stuffed pizza here are all quoted for the small size. They include Mozzarella & Ricotta, $10.85; Mozzarella, Ricotta, Salami and Pepperoni or Mozzarella, Ricotta, Mushrooms and Bell Peppers, $9.95 each and, finally, Mozzarella, Ricotta, Mushrooms, Salami and Olives, $10.60.

Beverages include soft drinks, $1.75/pint up to $4.75 for a liter; coffee, tea or milk, $1.25 each or house wines in red, white or pink at $3/glass; $6/half liter or $10/liter.

Lunch is served, too, with all the above choices plus a Mini Mozzarella nine-inch pizza, $6 (add 50 cents per each extra item you wish); Italian Sausage Sandwich or Meatball Sandwich, each served with a salad, $6.50 each.

We didn't see any dessert menu, but if, by some stretch of imagination, one is still hungry, one could always walk off dinner by speed walking to Toy Boat for some yummy ice cream. It is a short two blocks away at the corner of Clement Street and Fifth Avenue and would make a perfect end to a delicious, inexpensive dinner.

GIORGIO'S PIZZERIA

151 Clement St. (at Third Avenue)

Phone: 668-1266

Beer/Wine; wheelchairs; credit cards

No reservations taken

Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Friday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight

Atmosphere HH1/2

Service: HHH

Food: HH1/2

Price: H

Overall: HH1/2